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Next to the carcass of one Honda sedan lies an empty jerrycan that is caked in dried mud and a stain of what might have been blood. It almost looks as if someone had emptied the can of fuel, tossed aside the can and set the car ablaze, a riotous act by a defiant individual undeterred by the escalating artillery battle around them.
But the car was probably just blown up by a rocket-propelled grenade, like the house next to it. The soldier grunts and gestures at the caved-in roof of another house across the street, mumbling bitterly. Hussein, a Somali American who was living in Ohio six months ago, dresses like an officer, a pistol holstered by his hip and a beige beret cocked to one side of his head.
But he has no military experience, and the cause for which he is fighting, the SSC-Khatumo, does not have an army. It has heavy artillery and scores of technicals β Toyota pickups mounted with Russian machine guns, an economical synthesis of Japanese capitalism and aging East Bloc arsenals ubiquitous across the Horn of Africa.
And it has mobilized thousands of young men willing to die for its cause: the creation of an autonomous state within Somalia for the Dhulbahante clan. He is standing over a puddle of dried blood that marks the spot where an SSC fighter was killed by a sniper from the adjacent hilltop the day before. What began as a popular uprising in Las Anod against the administration of Somaliland, the rising star of the Horn of Africa that was praised until recently for its stability and nascent democracy, has transformed into a bloody stalemate among some 20, heavily armed soldiers drawn largely from opposing clans.
Given the volatility of the region, where Sudan collapses into crisis just as Ethiopia crawls out of one and jihadists are always scheming new ways to pull off the next Taliban-style coup, this war in the northern desert of Somalia can be easily overlooked. Lying in a disputed region claimed by both the de facto but unrecognized state of Somaliland and Puntland, an autonomous region within Somalia, the political status of Las Anod was not an issue that animated even most Somalis outside of the immediate area before the beginning of the year.