Date: Monday, September 1st Location: Espalion, France. Miles walked: Miles left: There are numerous villages, cities and hamlets on this trip that have stayed embedded in my memory since I last walked El Camino. Delve into my little Camino filing cabinet up there and all sorts of images, encounters, feelings and pleasures spill out like a dropped file of papers. Of those places, amongst the start in Le Puy en Velay, the historic town of Conques, the somehow ambient bustle of Pamplona, the relaxed Burgos and of course Santiago de Compostella nestles the charming Espalion.
On my last visit I slept on the banks of the River Lot after a quick swim in her waters, waking several times during the night to listen to her slow waters glide past and the odd Starling prematurely chirp a morning call. The sort of place where you start checking out the property prices. I strolled up to the pilgrims bridge over the reflective Lot and smiled, a smile that only a trip on this wonderful walk can gift.
I feel at ease, happy, contented to be reliving an experience that provided a turning point in my life some 11 years ago. Le Puy en Velay was as beautiful as ever, delightful old stone buildings with pastel painted shutters haphazardly nestled amongst slim, dim and random streets. Cobbles pressed against my soles and as I wandered around waiting for the cathedral doors to creak open to secure my pilgrims passport, the cafes started to wake up and set their tables outside to ply their trade for another day.
The chill of the morning slowly faded away as the sun cleared the roof tops and a grateful Le Puy gradually warmed. This was my first long distance walk and it set about a chain of events that changed me.
It taught me many things such as perseverance, patience, acceptance and perhaps a little cup of enlightenment. I emerged all those years ago in Santiago de Compostella a changed man, changed for the better and I will always keep that with me. Perhaps this return is in hope of some of the same, a life refresher if you like.
