I remember the first time I walked passed Bistro St-Malo. A neighbourhood institution. The menu was also refreshed, and a handful of Mediterranean dishes were added to the traditional French menu. I dined at Bistro St-Malo on a Wednesday evening, sitting on the outdoor patio as the sun set in the distance. When I arrived, I was greeted by Yannick, a tall waiter with a twinkle in his eye, and an animated presence, who promised to take care of me for the evening.
Although the steamed mussels appear to be the dish of choice on my visit, I decided to order tuna tartare. While I wait, I order a St-Malo cocktail, which is bright green and fruity. The tuna tartare arrives with a small side salad. A light and refreshing way to start my supper.
Thankfully, Bistro St-Malo does not do this, and it is now among my favourites. Choosing the main course was more challenging, as there were so many interesting dishes to choose from. Duck confit and Steak frites are tempting classics as well. On the suggestion of Yannick, I order the lobster cannelloni, which he tells me is not done the Italian way. The cannelloni arrives, bathing in a creaming asparagus and mint sauce, topped with pickled fennel and grapefruit salad, as well as a row of grilled asparagus spears.
The pasta is filled with so much lobster that it barely holds together once it has been cut. Perhaps that is on purpose, as it gives me an excuse to scoop up sauce with each bite.
The mint elevates the sauce to a point where I would probably drink it if that was an option. Of course, there are bubbles as well.
