This, basically, is what St Pauli remained for centuries, but over the last 30 years, the quarter has changed β well, at least some of it has.
If you cross over into St Pauli from the Karolinenviertel in the northeast, coming in via the Neuer Pferdemarkt , you will be entering leafy and genteel streets β¦. These small panels manage to sketch complicated biographies in just a few sentences β telling, for example, the story of the Jewish performance artist who came back to live in Wohlwillstrasse after WWII, having abandoned a successful stage career β based on a dance act with his sister β when the Nazis came to power.
Is it too far-fetched to say that he morphed into a composite of himself and his murdered sister? Walking through this historically rich neighbourhood, you will wonder what other fascinating stories lie hidden behind those ancient doors and windows β but intriguing events are not the exclusive privilege of the past, and with a little bit of luck, you may literally stumble upon something that happened only a few hours ago. Granted: this scene cannot match any of the biographical plaques in depth and historical dimension, but it shares with them an element of mystery.
I mean, what happened here? Further down Wohlwillstrasse, you will find yourself only a few blocks away from the port. The house fronts may not give that away, but if you peek into the backyards, you will find traces of the maritime trade activities that dominated this quarter for much of its history. Turn left into Grosse Freiheit, which initially looks scruffy rather than scandalous, a lot like any inner city quarter that has fallen a little into neglect.
Everybody knows about the Star Club which was located a little further down Grosse Freiheit at no. The Star Club shut its doors forever in , but the Indra is still very much in business, nowadays hosting mainly performances with a nostalgic s theme. Cross the street ahead of you, the Simon-von-Utrecht-Strasse, and continue straight into Grosse Freiheit.
