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The city stands on the coastal land where the surrounding hills blend with the plain. It is a dirty and small town, but it makes a decent show from a distance, because of the minarets of the eleven mosques, said to have been erected by Turkish women whose husbands fell in the battle of Kosovo. A picturesque feature is a small hill on the right, which at the time of our visit was lined with white and green military tents.
There is generally a cavalry regiment stationed in the field during the summer; whereas in the camp, as in the city, the Turk shows his taste by displaying the charm of white with green. Has the Kaimakam of Skopje sent a letter recommending us to the mudiri [leader] of Pristina; and this letter had a great effect, for besides enabling us to meet in the monastery, he [the abbot] also found us very good accommodation in the city.
The house chosen was that of the bishop, which, although it did not quite correspond to the European idea of an episcopal palace it boasted [only] four rooms, three small and one large , was nevertheless a pleasant residence. The prelate himself, a Phanariot, was of course away in Constantinople, and the community did not miss him much; neither did we, as we consequently came into his large, cool, pleasant room, with a row of windows under the shadow of the projecting roof.
From these windows is the most pleasing view from the house, which stands on a slope, looking down on the clustered city, and beyond it farther [sees] over the plateau bordered by the shadows of distant hills. Shortly after our arrival, the mudir of Pristina sent him [somewhere] to pay us a visit, and then he appeared, not as usual in the form of a fat and greasy ottoman, but as a regal Albanian in a green cloak dressed in fur.
He was a fine-looking old man, with silver hair, twinkling black eyes, a pale complexion, and the appearance of a bloodline that had not gained its position by rising from a lighter or coffee shop.