Door to doorβ¦. Dorset to Aix en Provence in just under 10 hours. Relaxing into the rhythm of the train, reading, resting, speeding through the countryside. What a great start to a holiday in the South of France. Gradually the temperature increased, and gradually the skies turned deep blueβ¦! My first glimpse of Aix was the very centre β The Cours Mirabeau. It is a fabulous classy boulevard; to the south 17 th and 18 th century houses which are occupied by banks and businesses, and to the north β this is the sunny side β throngs of people seated at cafes, restaurants and shoppers looking in shops, that entice you deeper into the Old Town where there are myriads of boutiques, bookstores, restaurants, squares and fountains.
The Cours β as it was originally named, is metres long by 42m wide, is lined with plane trees today, but once lined with elm trees β sadly these became diseased and were replaced. These magnificent trees, green and graceful offer much needed shade during the heat of the day.
They appear as a leaf tunnel during the summer, a delight to sit under and watch the world pass by. Fortunately there is an underground stream in Aix en Provence which provides the necessary water directly to their roots.
Passing along the Cours Mirabeau you cannot help but notice the fountains. There are four along the Cours Mirabeau. The first and largest at the bottom of the street it is 41 metres in diameter La Rotonde. On the very top are three allegorical female statues representing Justice, Agriculture and the Arts. Whilst watching this one evening seated by the Les Deux Garcons , the water from the fountain changes to a sparkling silver as the light fades and the evening sky turns midnight blue.
Most beautiful. This is a hot water fountain and is reputed to have healing properties. Later in the week I passed my hands through the waterβ¦. He is said to have enjoyed the good life, hence he is holding a bunch of Muscat grapes which he first introduced to Provence, in his left hand. A popular ruler, a keen amateur writer and painter known as Good King Rene, made Aix famous throughout Europe as a centre of learning and art.
